"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty.” - Winston Churchill.
It is never too late or too soon to start surfing. Surfing is one of the few sports that is enjoyed by such a large age variety. However, the groms and professionals make it look easy, but we all know that it can be very difficult and challenging to learn. Challenge is an opportunity for mental and physical growth as it tests your commitment and resilience. I personally think that challenge is a beautiful thing that society has trained many of us to hate. It's normal. Nobody picks up a baseball bat for the first time and instantly hits a home run. It's nearly impossible to score a goal in your very first soccer game. Very similarly, taking a board into the water for the very first time is most definitely going to feel uncomfortable. Don't let this frustrate you. Embrace the challenge and keep in mind that the best surfers were once kooks. I strongly recommend setting a goal for yourself each surf session. Know your limits, but make this goal slightly challenging. When I was learning to surf I set a goal every session and did not get out of the water until I accomplished it. This really helped me improve quickly. Your goal might be as simple as staying in the water for five more minutes than you usually do. Or maybe your goal will be to stand up just once. No matter what goal you set for yourself, the challenge will help you grow as a surfer and as a person. There is no need to compare yourself or your goals to anyone else; everyone has their own learning curve. Trust the process and have fun with it.
With love,
Aly
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