Surfers have a love/hate relationship with the wind. Wind is the ultimate reason that surfing exists at all. However, it can also completely destroy the surf conditions. Continue reading below to learn how this is possible.
Let's start by discussing how waves are formed. Before you can fully understand the relationship between wind and waves, you must know the science behind how waves are formed. The formation of a wave begins miles away from the coastline, in the open ocean. There are three types of waves: wind-driven, tsunami, and tidal. For now, we are going to stay focused on wind-driven waves because most surface waves are wind-driven. Wind-driven waves are created when wind travels over the surface of the water. Through friction and pressure, the energy from the movement of air
molecules is transferred to the surface level of the water. This transfer of energy causes disturbances in the water. The energy is then carried through the water and creates the surface wave. People often believe that the water is moving, but this is incorrect. Waves are actually a form of energy passing through the water, not traveling bodies of water.
In surfing, there are primarily two wind conditions: offshore and onshore. The two different types of wind mainly occur due to pressure in the atmosphere. When it comes to the effects on coastal waves, there is a major difference between offshore and onshore winds.
Surfers love Offshore winds. Offshore winds are one of the main environmental factors that surfers look for when deciding if it is a good day and/or time for a session. Offshore winds blow from land towards the water. The main function of offshore wind is to delay the breaking of each wave. This creates steeper faces and faster-breaking waves. Specifically, the wind blows against the top of the wave and this creates extraordinary clean conditions and a better chance for barrels. However, although they are great, it is possible to have too much of a good thing. A wave of minimal size and strong offshore wind may result in the wave not breaking at all before the shore. It is very important to know how your surf spot reacts to wind.
Surfers hate Onshore winds. Onshore winds are winds that blow from the water towards land. Creating an opposite effect than offshore winds, onshore winds shorten the time that it takes for a wave to break. This causes the wave to crumble and completely lose its shape. Onshore winds also contribute to the formation of unwanted new waves. Waves often break deep and quickly reform with a completely unsurfable wall. Spilling breakers are also a common result of onshore winds. Spilling breakers lose energy as they approach the shore, making them extremely hard to catch. Once again, you should always know how your surf spot reacts to wind.
Wave height is affected by three main factors: wind speed, wind direction, and fetch. If wind speed is slow, small waves are guaranteed to form. In this case, the duration and the fetch do not have any impact on the wave. On the other hand, high wind speed with a short duration is another cause of small waves no matter what the wind speed and fetch are providing at the time. Additionally, if the duration is long but there is no fetch, there will once again be small waves. To sum it up, large waves are only formed when all three factors properly combine. Surfers ideally want wind speed below 3 miles per hour and nothing over 10 miles per hour (Duxbury, et al, 2002).
I sincerely hope that this article helps you on your journey to better understand the surf forecast.
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