The word “surf” in Hawaiian is pronounced he’e nalu, which translates to “sliding on a wave.” In the 12th century, the first surfing evidence was discovered in a Polynesian cave painting, which makes surfing one of the oldest sports known to mankind. The paintings showed people riding on waves. When Polynesians brought the sport and other aspects of their culture to Hawaii, it quickly became the most popular sport and a symbol of the Hawaiian islands. Along with being a symbolic sport, surfing was also a major aspect of religion and Polynesian culture. Religious rituals would occur during surfboard shaping practice to secure the gods’ goodwill.
Hawaiians of all ages and hierarchies surfed, but there were laws, known as the codes of kapu, that allowed better surf opportunities for the upper class. For example, the Alaia was the most versatile and commonly used board amongst the upper class. These boards ranged from seven to twelve feet long and were eighteen inches wide with a square tail and round nose. The Olo was the name of the board that was exclusive to royalty. This board was approximately twenty-four feet long. It was so special because it could catch unbroken waves and be ridden into shore; no other board at the time had this capability. In contrast, commoners were given the least popular swells and surfed with much smaller boards. The commoners' boards were called Paipos. The Paipo was a round-nosed, flat-belly board. Paipos were only about three to six feet long. Commoners would gain respect within the upper class through their surfing abilities and knowledge. If they gained enough respect, they would sometimes be allowed to switch from a Paipo to an Alaia. Additionally, surf performance would determine who would be chief of the tribe because of the strength and endurance it symbolized.
Polynesians surfing on tree logs has turned into a lifestyle for many, including myself. Since the 12th century, surfing has expanded across the world and surfers now paddle out wherever they can find a decent wave. Today, surfers still make connections to the origin of surfing. For example, surfers are expected to have etiquette and respect unwritten rules. This is very similar to the codes of kapu.
In contrast to old-fashioned surfing, modern-day athletes use surfing for pleasure and potential careers. Additionally, modern technology has allowed for surfboard designs that maximize maneuverability and durability.
Surfing is just as much of a culture as it is a sport. With that said, learning about cultures can make all of us more well-rounded individuals. As a surfer, it is extremely important to respect the Native Hawaiians and their culture.
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